Know your breeds
“To the man who only has a hammer, everything he encounters begins to look like a nail.”
― Abraham Maslow
TOOLS OF THE TRADE
The greatest tool God has given us is our mind. We can move entire mountains, if we learn to think outside the box. The tools we will be going over are only as good as our willingness to use them and if something appears not to be working then try an abstract approach, you might be surprised at the results!
The greatest tool God has given us is our mind. We can move entire mountains, if we learn to think outside the box. The tools we will be going over are only as good as our willingness to use them and if something appears not to be working then try an abstract approach, you might be surprised at the results!
THE CRATE
The crate is an invaluable piece of equipment. Dogs are den animals by nature. They feel very comfortable and safe in small enclosed areas and they do not like to defecate where they sleep. This will facilitate in the house-breaking process, keeping them from learning destructive behaviors that can be both annoying and costly.
You will keep the dog crated when you are unable to supervise i.e., when sleeping, at work, or just out of sight (this is NOT a disciplinary tool). You will not crate your dog for bad behavior, or to avoid it, but only when you cannot correct or praise them. This will prevent ingraining undesirable habits. You will also crate them an hour or so before training. This will build anticipation and a desire to get out and work (training becomes rewarding), and a half hour or so after to allow them to retain what they have learned. Make the crate comfortable for them. Lay a blanket in it and their favorite chew toy. Also have water available for them. If they have an accident inside the crate, simply clean it out. Do not scold them for it. This is their bed and it should be big enough for them to turn around in. Always leave the door open so they have access to it. THE FLAT COLLAR
This piece of equipment everyone is familiar with. You see it on cats and dogs, and is used to hang name and vaccination tags and to lead your pet around when the need arises. Although this can be used to train you must be careful with the less hardy or more sensitive dogs as it has the chance to cause harm to their neck. The same jerk and release principle applies as the slip chain. It is best not to have tags on the flat collar when using it as a training device.
THE PINCH COLLAR
The pinch collar can look very intimidating, but can actually be safer to use than the slip collar in the hands of an experienced trainer. A novice should stay with the slip chain until more familiar with the training process.
The pinch collar comes in three gauges: light, medium and heavy. This is not the size. The collar is adjusted by adding or removing links to fit the dog. This also should have a space of two to three fingers and worn high up on the neck with the loop in-between the ears. When training, keep the collar high up on the neck and praise the dog when adjusting it. DO NOT leave it on the dog when you’re not training. I have seen dogs come in for grooming that have had the prongs imbedded in the skin. This was due to the collar being put on too tight, the long hair of the dog, and NEGLECT! Another reason why only experienced trainers should use them. The same jerk and release principle applies as the slip collar. Keep it clean and free of debris. 6' LEATHER LEAD
This will be the lead we will use the most during training. Using leather or cotton is far safer. Nylon can cut or injure you or the dog. Keep the lead clean and use leather conditioner periodically to keep it soft and supple.
30' LIGHT LINE
The 30’ light line is made of very thin cotton rope and will transition us to the off-leash phase of our training. You can make one from a clothes line. Ask your local hardware store for some and a light-weight clasp for the collar. Here are a couple of knots you can use to connect the clasp.
Puppy Vaccination Schedule
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THE SLIP CHAIN (aka The Choke Chain) If you are using this as a choke chain, then you are using it wrong and need to pay special attention to these instructions.
Purchasing high quality gear is worth the investment. The collar should be the right size for the dog, not slipping off too easy, but having a space of two or three fingers. This will allow for a clean correction and allow the chain to slide back quickly. The smaller and tighter the links the better. Large links will catch and inhibit a clean smooth correction and release. There is a right and a wrong way to use the slip chain. When heeling, it should make an inverted “P” shape with the loop directly behind the dog’s right ear as shown above: If heeling on the right, the loop should be behind the left ear. The chain should be kept high up on the neck and the loop directly behind the ear. This will take adjusting the collar quite often, which is a good time to pet and praise your dog. We praise our dog every chance we get! When administering a correction, it should be a smooth, quick jerk and release and no harder than it takes to get the dog’s attention. Remember, not all dogs are the same. You would not correct a Shiatsu with the same force as you would a Rottweiler, and you would not correct a shy, timid dog the same as you would a courageous, happy-go-lucky dog. We will discuss this at depth in our chapter on “Personalities and Profiles.” Keep your slip chain clean and free of debris, rust, dirt, and weeds. Be careful when kenneling your dog or keeping them in a fenced yard with the slip chain on. I have heard more than one horror story of a dog hanging themselves on a fence. I suggest taking it off when not training your dog for long periods of time anything around the neck without supervision can be dangerous! 15' COTTON LEASH
We will be using this lead for the attention-building process and during the transitioning between the 6’ leather lead and the 30’ light line. Make sure there are no rips or tears in the lead. It needs to be sturdy and trustworthy. Please make sure it’s cotton and not nylon. Nylon can cut or hurt you or the dog.
THE THROW CHAIN
The throw chain is what we use to get the dogs attention “instead of the collar” in the last phase of our advanced obedience training. This tool requires some training in throwing in order that you’re not missing the dog or hitting them in the wrong spot. You only aim for their rear end and you must be careful not to let them see you throw it for two reasons. One, so you don’t hit them in the face, and two, so they only connect the chain hitting them with your voice. They will come to believe that you are correcting them just by raising your voice. This is a powerful tool and you should become proficient in using it before actually tossing it at your dog. A good way to do this is by throwing it at pillows or other type targets to become a better aim. Never let the dog see you pick them up. You will either need to retrieve them after you put the dog up, or have a helper pick them up as you go along. These are tools so take care of them as well.
THE ELECTRONIC COLLAR
The electronic collar is a fine tuning device and will only be used a few times. If you are not a professional trainer, you may wish to rent one instead of buy your collar. It would be best to have the supervision of a professional. This is a critical moment in the training process. We will be getting the dog used to wearing the collar for a couple of weeks before using it. Changing to different collars several times a day i.e. flat, slip, electronic, flat, slip, etc. This will confuse the dog as to which collar shocked them thereby yielding the ultimate power to your voice. When placing the collar on, you must make sure the electrodes make contact with the dog. These can be changed to longer electrodes for long-haired dogs. Make sure it is charged and set to the desired level i.e., low, medium, or high. Again do NOT proceed with this stage of training without the guidance of a professional dog trainer!
TERMINOLOGY
COURAGE Absence of fear toward objects or in situations HARDNESS Resiliency toward unpleasant experiences SOFTNESS Remembering unpleasant experiences TEMPERAMENT Attitude toward life DRIVES Subconscious impulses to react to stimuli DRIVES HUNTING Drive to pursue prey (objects) TRACKING Drive to follow ground disturbance odors (animal tracks or footprints) AIR SCENT Drive to follow windborne scents RETRIEVE Drive to bring prey (objects) to the pack (handler) or yard PREY Drive to bite/kill prey (refusal to release when playing tug-of-war or when sleeve happy) FIGHT Drive to measure physical prowess with rivals (same as rowdy human) GUARD Drive to warn intruders by barking, growling, or biting to stay out of territory (yard or patrol car) PROTECTION Drive to defend the pack (family or handler) RANK Drive to achieve higher rank in the pack (growling or biting handler when under stress) SURVIVAL Drive to flee from real or imagined danger / FLIGHT SELF DEFENSE Drive to attack real or imagined danger HOMING Drive to return to territory or pack (handler) PLAY Drive for physical contact with pack members ACTIVITY Drive to move and act (running fence, chewing, digging) ENDURANCE Drive to move and run for long periods at a time SOCIAL SKILL Drive to socialize with others TRAINABILITY Drive to follow desires of the pack leader (handler) |
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